Trim Charts

Fitting Help

The Shaft Is The Transmission

Customers often ask us, " Will this shaft work well with this club head?" By asking this question, the customers are taking the position that the club head is the principle component of a golf club. We believe that the golf shaft is the "transmission" of the golf club and one of the most  important components in club performance.

To determine which shaft is best for you, lets consider these points:

Flex: Flex is one of the most commonly misunderstood parts of the golf shaft. NOTHING is more important in choosing your new set of clubs than the correct shaft flex. You can have the best club head and the sweetest swing, but if the shaft isn't the right flex for you (your tempo and swing speed), you won't hit a good shot, unless you know how to modify your swing to compensate for the different characteristics of the club you are using. Most amateurs don't have that kind of skill and frankly don't need that skill. That being said, you could actually swing slower with a regular flex club and achieve the same distance you would with a stiff club swinging at a faster speed. This is because the regular shaft, if it unloads properly through the impact zone, actually adds clubhead speed at impact and therefore more distance. A stiff shaft minimizes this unloading effect, and, if you don't swing fast enough to need it, you could be cheating yourself out of a few yards. A fast hard swing is also usually harder for most amateurs to control, so examine your game and make an informed decision on shaft flex.

The way to determine the flex you need is by your clubhead speed.  The following can be a guide to determine your clubhead speed: (have your clubhead speed measured if at all possible)

If your swing speed is less than 70 MPH (You choose a 3 Iron or a 3 or 5 Wood from 150 yards) you should use a Ladies flex.
If your swing speed is 70-80 MPH (You choose a 4 or 5 Iron from 150 yards) you should use a Senior flex.
If your swing speed is 81-96 MPH (You choose a 6 or 7 Iron from 150 yards) you should use a Regular Flex.
If your swing speed is above 95 MPH (You choose a 8 or 9 Iron from 150 yards) you should use a Stiff flex.

Be honest with yourself about your swing!   Choosing a flex that is too stiff is a common mistake that will hurt your game!

Length Of Your Clubs: If you are not sure what length clubs you need - you can use the simple method of measurement called "Wrist To Floor". All you will need is a yardstick. Stand up perfectly straight with your golf shoes on, and have someone measure from the floor to the crease of your wrist. About 80% of golfers are in the "standard length" range of 34 to 36" - and here's a chart to help you. When you order clubs from us, you can easily choose the length you need.






   27" to 32"

Minus One Inch

   32" to 34"

Minus 1/2 Inch

   34" to 36"

Standard Length

   36" to 38"

Plus 1/2 Inch

   38" to 40"

Plus One Inch

Kick Point: The kick point (also called flex point, or bend point) refers to the position on the shaft where the shaft bends while the club is accelerating toward the ball.

The kick point slightly affects ball flight. (Choosing the correct flex for your swing is much more important, and has the greatest affect on ball flight.) The kick point on the shaft is no more than 2 to 3 inches between high, medium and low. Most of our shafts have a mid kick point that is fine for the vast majority of golfers.

Graphite vs. Steel: Both steel and graphite shafts can work for anyone. One common misconception is that if a golfer plays regular flex steel, that he should play stiff flex graphite. Actually, the flex is the flex. Regular is regular, and stiff is stiff. Pro's with similar swing speeds choose different options here. Tiger uses steel and Daly uses graphite, so go figure. The following are our very general recommendations:

Men aged 15-55, steel shafted irons, graphite shafted woods.
Seniors, graphite shafted irons and woods.
Ladies (all ages), graphite shafted irons and woods.

Graphite is lighter weight, and enables players to generate more clubhead speed, and achieve greater distance. Steel, while heavier, may help slightly with accuracy.

1) Should I use graphite or steel shafts for my irons?

Graphite shafts obviously reduce the total weight of the club, and that is generally good for all players, but this is especially true for women and seniors. Graphite also absorbs the shock of impact, and this can benefit those who have joint problems, making for a more comfortable round of golf. That said, most golfers believe steel shafts for irons are better because of accuracy and or consistency. 

2) Should I use graphite or steel shafts for my woods?

The modern standard for almost all players is graphite shafts for woods. It is lighter, and allows for larger and more forgiving clubheads to be used for increased playability without requiring more strength to swing and control the club. It also can allow for longer shaft lengths with no increase in weight, which for the same swing speed will increases clubhead speed resulting in more distance off the tee.  So if getting the most out of your swing speed with the least effort sounds good to you, then choose one of our graphite shaft options.

3) Should I order a sand wedge?

You can play from the sand trap with a pitching wedge but for most golfers it won't work as well as a sand wedge. What makes a sand wedge different is the amount of "bounce" built into the sole of the club. Bounce is where the trailing edge of the clubhead is lower than the leading edge. In a sand trap this is what provides the lift or explosion to extract the ball. A sand wedge is also useful in heavy thick grass. A sand wedge is offered as an option on all of our iron sets, and while it's better in most cases to avoid the sand, you'll need to learn how to play out of it, so why not use the club designed for it?